November 15, 2013
Interview with Director Chris Morris
January 17, 2012
Istanbul's best cultural cafés & eateries
ISTANBUL MODERN CAFÉ - ISTANBUL MUSEUM OF MODERN ART
Located in the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art, the stylish Istanbul Modern Café has a spacious terrace with a breathtaking view of theBosphorus. The museum, with its permanent and temporary exhibits ranging from local to international art, is one of Turkey’s best collections of contemporary art. The exhibition touches upon the relationship between nature, inanimate objects and people. When you want to take a break on your next visit, stop by the Istanbul Modern Café, which sits at the entrance beside the souvenir shop and is a great place to enjoy a glass from their select wine list. The menu consists of authentic Turkish dishes like Akçaabat köfte, served with Aegean-style sautéed vegetables and wrapped Swiss chard in olive oil, alongside international dishes like smoked salmon and pappardelle with fresh coriander. (0212) 292 2612. Meclis-i MebusanCaddesi, Liman Işletmeleri, Sahası, Antrepo 4, Karaköy. Open daily from10.00-24.00, Monday-Saturday, andfrom 10.00-18.00 on Sunday.www.istanbulmodern.org/en
KARAKOL RESTAURANT - TOPKAPI PALACE MUSEUM
(0212) 514 9494. Karakol Building,next to Hagia Irene, Sultanahmet.Open daily from 10.00-23.00.www.karakolrestaurant.com
MÜZEDECHANGA - SAKIP SABANCI MUSEUM
In 2005, the award-winning Changa restaurant in Taksim opened its spin-off restaurant, MüzedeChanga, in the garden of the Sakıp Sabancı Museum in Emirgan. Visitors of the temporary and permanent galleries of this modern museum can enjoy light repasts during the day, or even decide to return to the grounds at night when the restaurant serves Turkish-Mediterranean dishes with a modern twist. The menu is supervised by consultant Chef Peter Gordon, while the restaurant is right beside the Horse Mansion and sits on land that boasts one of the most stunning views of the Bosphorus. The décor of this eatery is a mixture of glass, wood and steel, with custom-made furniture created by renowned local designing firm, Autoban.
(0212) 323 0901. Sakıp Sabanc›Caddesi 42, Emirgan. Open dailyfrom 10.30-01.00, except onMondays. Call to make reservationsbefore 18.00 for dinner.www.changa-istanbul.com
CAFÉ DU LEVANT, DEMLIK KAFE, HALAT RESTAURANT AND BAR BAR ROSSA - RAHMI M. KOÇ MUSEUM
Cafe du Levant |
All venues are located at: Kumbarhane Caddesi 2, Hasköy, Sütlüce. www.cafedulevant.com
Café Du Levant - (0212) 369 6607. cafedulevant.com Open daily from10.00-17.00, except Mondays.
Demlik Kafe - (0212) 369 6600. Open from 10.00-17.00 on weekdays and from 10.00-19.00 on the weekends.
Halat Restaurant - (0212) 369 6616. halatrestaurant.com Open daily from 10.00-22.00, except Mondays.
Bar Bar Rossa- (0212) 369 6616. Open nightly, except Mondays.
IKBAL KAHVE - ORHAN KEMAL MUSEUM AND BOOKSTORE
Orhan Kemal was one of Turkey’s most prominent 20th-century authors. The Orhan Kemal Museum and Bookstore, where the author’s life is chronicled through photographs, letters and personal belongings, and where fans can purchase Kemal’s works, opened in 2000. Since Kemal wrote his booksand conversed with his friends at the Ikbal Kahve in Eminönü, his son converted the bottom floor of the Cihangir museum into Ikbal Kahve. Stop by here to enjoy a cup of tea and chances are you’ll find the son there, always willing to talk about his father’s work.
(0212) 292 9245-1213. Akarsu Caddesi 32 Cihangir, Taksim. Open on weekdays from 10.00-19.00. www.orhankemal.org
OTTO SANTRAL AND TAMIRANE SANTRAL ISTANBUL
Tamirane |
Tamirane’s bar is the place to go for cocktails, with classics such as the “Pear Margarita” and drinks you won’t find anywhere else, like the “30-spiced Tamirane Vodka.”
Both venues are located at: Eski Silahtarağa, Elektrik Santralı, Kazım Karabekir Caddesi 2/6, Eyüp.
Otto Santral - (0212) 427 1889. Open from 10.00-02.00 on weekdays and from 10.00-04.00 on the weekends. www.otto-restaurant.com
Tamirane - (0212) 311 7309. Open from 10.00-24.00 Monday-Thursday, from 10.00-02.00 Friday-Saturday and from 10.00-22.00 on Sunday. www.tamirane.com
CAFÉ ARTE - ARTE ISTANBUL ART GALLERY
Opened in 2008, the Arte Istanbul Art Gallery (Arte Istanbul Sanat Galerisi) is the city’s first sculpture gallery, located in the heart of Beyoğlu. While you’re enjoying the sculptures in the garden (weather-permitting), grab a seat at Café Arte for a light snack or stay for a while and sample from their delicious daily lunch specials.
(0212) 292 8045. Kumbaracı Yokuşu, Tercüman Çıkmazı 16/1, Beyoğlu. Open daily from 09.00-18.00, except Sunday.www.arteistanbul.com
SAAT KULESI KAFE - DOLMABAHÇE PALACE MUSEUM
Located in the well-manicured garden of the Dolmabahçe Palace, next to the Clock Tower, the café offers reasonably priced dishes like tost (grilled cheese sandwiches) and hamburgers, though their beverage menu is more extensive. After touring the beautiful gardens of the former residence of the Ottoman Sultans and then the President of theTurkish Republic, enjoy the Bosphorus view for as long as the weather permits.
(0212) 236 9000/1279. Dolmabahçe Caddesi, Befliktaş. Open daily from 09.00-22.00. www.dolmabahcepalace.com
*Originally published in the Novembe 2010 issue of Time Out Istanbul in English.
December 12, 2010
For the Holidays
This holiday season, I'm afraid I've got bad news for Santa...no gifts for me underneath the tree, since I've been naughty and neglected my dear blog for much too long! It's just not right and I'm ashamed. But, on the brink of a new year, my new resolution (although I hate to make promises that aren't so easy to keep, especially when "life" gets in the way), that I will update my blog more often.
Why haven't I been able to update it more regularly now that I am actually in the business of writing, publishing and all that jazz? Well, it's just that...when you do something as your job, 24/7, thinking and dreaming about it...well, you can't help but associate it with "work." I know, I know, that was a pretentious thing to say. Cause that's something I've heard musicians say. And yes, I know that I am not a rich and famous writer, actor, singer-songwriter or digital music mixer...but, if your days are constantly filled with thinking up interesting articles to write, publish or edit, and always writing, always editing and always thinking about words...
...What do you want to do when you come home, or in your spare time? Absolutely NOTHING to do with words. In my case, I choose Conan and the thousands of Hollywood movies that I would never pay to watch in the theatres, but instead rent to watch at home after a long day at work.
And what suffers? My blog. My source of communication with the rest of the world.
Well, not anymore! I'm going to be back on the horse, updating this baby until the cows come home, so keep your faith in me and stay tuned in 2011! And happy holidays to all of you and your loved ones. Thanks for following!
BUT WAIT! Before I'm off, I'd like to share a tidbit for the holiday season. A couple of years ago, my husband, Joe and I were walking down the constantly crowded and entertaining Istiklal Avenue in Istanbul, and we saw a man in a Santa outfit.
Why were we so shocked to see him? Since Turks don’t celebrate Christmas, New Year's has become the holiday of choice; a time to clink glasses with our loved ones, even a time to enjoy a turkey dinner, decorate the tree and open presents. But nowadays, since the world now deems Christmas and all the iconic imagery that comes along with it commercial rather than a part of the Christian faith, Santa and everything "Christmas" has been incorporated into the New Year's theme. Thus, Istanbul celebrates their version of Christmas, fully loaded with Christmas trees, Christmas lights, Christmas presents and of course, Christmas Santa on New Year's. So, when I saw Santa this year, standing in the same spot as before, I smiled.
What was he doing there? On New Years, the National Lottery Administration has a special New Years lottery. This year, the prize is 35 million lira. And who better to sell off these festive lottery tickets than…Turkish Santa himself. So, if you are hanging out in Istanbul during the holidays, passing through Istiklal on your way to meet up with friends for a drink, or do some last minute New Year's shopping, why not try your luck at the jolly grand prize!?!
September 12, 2009
When Toronto meets Istanbul
Just like a carefully woven, ornate Turkish kilim, Toronto has been blessed with the colourful woolen threads of diversity. People from all over the world collide as they call this zestfully dynamic city of lights their home. In a sense, to know this city, is to know the world. So much of our daily life, our reality and what we love about our city parallel what other people three thousand kilometers away from here love and enjoy about their own cities. In a way, we are experiencing a different version of the same moments. Knowing this breaks down the barriers of distance, making the world a bit smaller, bringing us all a little closer together.
I have written a series of articles that compare my lovely hometown city of Toronto and surrounding area to other cities I've visited throughout the world. Come along with me for the ride.
Kokorec to Street Meat
The distant cousin of the sausage, since the meat comes from similar parts of the cow instead of the pig, kokorec (pronounced “kokorech”) is a favourite among Turkish locals. The large metal dome that houses this tubular slab of meat on a skewer is either part of a restaurant’s rich offerings or can be seen moving through the busy streets of Istanbul. This tasty dish is served with or without bread, lettuce and tomatoes and is best consumed as a delicious conclusion to a night on the town.
“Street meat” or the glorified hot dog is available under umbrella covered stands across Toronto, multiplying the closer you get to major tourist attractions and the bar scene. The addition of a plethora of condiments are part of its charm, from bacon bits to sauerkraut, green olives to hot peppers along with your run-of-the-mill usual suspects, ketchup, mustard and relish. If you are tired of pimping up a boring old hot dog, Polish and Spicy Italian sausages are also cooked up to give a multi-cultural twist to this local favourite. These delightful meal replacements or grand finale’s to a weekend drinking session are a must-have for any Torontonian or tourist alike.
Leb-i Derya to Panorama
After hiking down a steep hill from one of the many alleyways along Istiklal Caddesi in Beyoglu, shortly after an elevator ride up to the 5th floor, you will find yourself walking into a cozy, romantically lit restaurant/bar with the city lights surrounding you from ceiling to floor. When you order your drinks, and they bring a spread of nuts and olives alongside, you know you have come to the right place. Though it is out of character for such a view to come at an affordable price, this feature among many others, including the great service, gives its patrons reasons to keep coming back.
Towering over the downtown core of Toronto, boasting a view that would rival the CN Tower’s, Panorama offers a 360 degree view of the city that anyone would expect from the 51st floor of a skyscraper. This bird’s nest restaurant/bar hosts many prestigious events and has become a hangout for anyone willing to pay a good penny for a high-class dining experience. Even though this stunning view, especially at dusk when natural lights meet the glow of the city, comes with a fairly expensive price tag, it’s well worth breaking the bank to make the trip.
Black Sea Region to The Kawarthas
Along the roads that lead you from the hustle and bustle of the highly populated streets of Istanbul, the simple line of pine trees paralleling the road make for a peaceful change. As you travel eastward, the air becomes crisper with the sweet smell of pine and everything slows down a little. Following along the Black Sea coast, it all feels and looks different. Is this Turkey, with its surplus of unique flora and fauna, rolling mountains and vast farmlands? The landscape reminds us of the Scottish highlands or even the North American countryside. The evening is the perfect time to relax at a seaside café or bar, order some delectable Karadeniz pide and soak up the lights of the towns along the coast. This coast is known for the most scenic views in the country, the salty water and the kindest people you’ll ever meet.
Vast terrains of green and quaint little towns bring the landscape of Northern Ontario together in one peaceful composition. Each mini-lake takes the name of its shape, be it Elephant, Dog or Bass, as they peak through the massive cottages and lakeside homes that are the summer residence of many well-off Ontarians. If you are lucky enough to own, rent or simply be invited to one of these glorious properties, you will be spoiled by the excitement that the water traffic has to offer during the day with seadoos, motorboats, kayaks and canoes across each lake. By night, as the mosquitoes come out to play, the adjoined lakes offer a comforting serenity that will put some to sleep and entice others to celebrate around a campfire with the melodies of a guitar, some marshmallows and good Canadian beer.
August 26, 2009
When East Meets West, Istanbul Is The Literal Definition
You know the feeling of complete peace that you almost never get in a bustling, busy city populated with 12 million people? The way this city of seven-hills is oddly shaped, somehow, allows you to find a nook where you can just sit at a cafe, look out onto the Bosphorus, enjoy delicious Turkish tea (what we call "cay", pronounced "chay") and just be. Turks are very proud and enthusiastic about the "views" of their country, so when they find a place with a nice view, the world is their oyster. "Simple pleasures" is their philosophy. Food, a beautiful view, family, friends and enjoyment of life is what is baked in the sweet, creamy centre of this culture. The rest is all sugar-coating. When visitors decide to test their sense of adventure by visiting Istanbul, they get layers upon layers of civilization built right on top of the other like a wedding cake. Synagogues hover peacefully beside the minarets of the local Mosque forming a spiritual triangle completed with an ancient Roman basilica right around the corner. University students pile out of their classes after having learned about economic development during the Ottoman era or Turkey's cutting-edge healthcare system, as they congregate in areas like Kadikoy, Ortakoy, Taksim or Gulhane and exchange ideas about Ataturk, the father of Turkish democracy, Western fashion, Turkish ska music, history and politics. Women dressed in head dresses, others in mini-skirts, all lounge around the cities many public spaces. A majority of youth, some who have newly emigrated from different cities all across Anatolia, populate the streets of Istanbul, adding to the diverse city life, music and style. They all adapt to the quickly developing organism that is the "modern city of Istanbul." Always changing, never settling in. Modernity has quickly infiltrated all aspects of Turkish life. Loads of shopping malls with their futuristic architecture, an always-expanding subway system that rivals North American ones, a new university being founded each year, and more and more skyscrapers to add to the lot that already litter the cityscape of the "European side." All these constant developments vouch for the progress of this ancient city. When east meets west, Istanbul is where it gets complicated.
Caressing the waves of the Bosphorus, the snaking current of water that carves its way through both continents doesn't keep the citizens of each side apart enough to create separation anxiety, since there is an abundance of travel options. The first option is sipping Ayran (a refreshing yoghurt drink) while feeding the seagulls simit (another local favourite, a baked donut-shaped bread covered in sesame seed), seated on the white, wooden seats lining the sides of the "vapur," the large boats that traverse the strait from Uskudar to Eminonu, or Cengelkoy to Bebek. If a leisurely ride on the water is not what you are searching for, a "motor" will also ferry you across, but at two times the speed and exhaust fumes. To enjoy this trip from east to west from above, taxis, "dolmus" (minivans that pack 7-9 people) and local buses on one of the two bridges suspended across the water will get you where you want to go. Problem solved!
With the Aya Sofia, Blue Mosque and Basilica Sistern, the area called Sultanahmet has become one of the most visited spots in this city. Within the square footage of this part of town, tourists come in droves to see both empires, Ottoman and Roman, crash into one another in a impressionist melange of tulips and crosses. East not only meets West, but they have been practically married for hundreds of years already. Personifying the differences between Europe and Middle East helps reduce the complex relationship to a more simplistic one of friendship. It is safe to call one side the wife and the other side the husband. Amid their arguments and their constant bickering, their love is strong, their friendship runs deep and their co-habitation explodes in colours, structures, foods and people unlike the world has ever seen. Only when east meets west, can violence be so destructive, can faith be so decisive, can passion be so explosive and celebration be so vital. Side by side, so alive, these two histories, cultures and lifestyles make Istanbul a city that is often longed for. I feel it calling out to me now, I wish I was there, devouring its delicious foods, smiling at the gypsies selling flowers on the street or the vendors hollering "100% silk scarves" or "Real Turkish kilims for sale" at the Grand Bazaar. I miss walking down brightly lit, perfectly paved, tree-lined avenues bursting with European boutiques and American clothing stores, with a taste of home every fast food chain provides at each major intersection, Istanbul satisfies my craving for it all.